The Way Down #1

Uhuru Peak was absolutely amazing. After photo taking and hugging, taking in the view, absorbing the achievement, it was time to go. Up that high the air is super thin so the guides only let you stay up at the top for around 15 minutes. Luckily, when you reach the top, time seems to slow down, the 15 minutes feels double or triple that.

We made our way back to Gilman's Point, the sun high in the sky, beaming down on our faces. After reaching Gilman's Point we began our steady descent down Jamaica Rocks. We thought going up Jamaica Rocks was tough, well, it was even tougher going down. Thank God for walking poles is all I'm gonna say. At the bottom of Jamaica Rocks we reached a place we hadn't actually seen before.

In the blackness of the night we'd shuffled along, meandering like a liquid snake, unable to take in our surroundings. A grey slope appeared before us thick with volcanic dust, a darker grey path slinking down marked out by hundreds of boots.

Walk down the way we came? No, no, no. "We will ski", says Joseph. It took me a while to get the technique, aided by Joseph. Doing your best to stay upright, using your walking poles for support, you take giant strides and slide down the scree. Although making the journey down shorter, it was hugely exhausting, especially after the gruelling ascent we'd already endured. But what goes up, must come down. Nearer to camp we were greeted by the porters who put up our tents everyday. They took our bags from us and helped us the rest of the way, our exhaustion evident.

After reaching camp we went straight to out tents and, fully dressed fell straight to sleep. We could only sleep for around 45 minutes as we had to descend lower to another camp that same day. After waking we had to pack up straight away and have a quick meal in the mess tent.

The next camp was several hours away and I admit I struggled on the journey, especially functioning on such little sleep. Upon reaching camp, after hours of trekking, we signed in and headed to the mess tent to greet the others. We had a fantastic meal that evening of Tanzanian stew and rice. The food on the trip was absolutely amazing the entire time, but this traditional meal was my favourite. That evening we just rested up with the others, playing card games and chatting.

That night, sleep beckoned to us and we were ready to fall into it's warm embrace.

Reaching the Top #5

Awoke just before midnight to be slapped in the face by my unrelenting pursuer, altitude. After promptly throwing up outside the tent, it was time to gear up, grub up and set out.

Pitch black. A snake of head torches moving up and up, never ending. One foot. Come on Karl! Then the other foot. Shuffling along in the dark. On our first break I gobbled down some anti-nausea pills, kindly provided by our chief guide. To be honest it could have been anything, I was just relieved to have anything to take away the compressing feeling. At that point our group started to splinter, half unhindered by altitude, half struck.

One guide stayed with us through the dark, literal and metaphorical. Joseph. Our hero. At various stages through the night I found rocks collapse onto and fall asleep, just for seconds before he woke me, but what seems like minutes, even hours. He'd unlid my water and make me drink, keeping me hydrated. He'd tell me not to worry, that I was strong, I could make it. At that time it was hard to believe. When I was at my weakest he took my bag from me and carried it himself as well as his own.

All through this night my aunt, who we climbed the mountain in memory of, was never far from my mind. I'd mouth dry lipped, "this is for you", over and over, it gave me the strength to carry on. Lifted me. After hours we arrived at Jamaica Rocks. Steep, jagged and awkward. By far the worst part of our trek.

But then, from nowhere, Gilman's Point. And behind us... Sunrise. The most beautiful sunrise I'd ever seen. At this point it's your choice to decide. Do you carry on to the top? To Uhuru peak? After all the pain there was no question in my mind.

Yes. Yes I carry on. Yes I get to the top. There is nothing, nothing in this world that would stop me now. Stumbling, in light now, to Stella point, a moments rest, move on. Passing so many shattered yet ecstatic people going the other way. "You're so close", "Come on! You can do it!". Thank you strangers, you helped more than you realised. Eventually we made it. We reached the top. We hugged the rest of our group, we hugged our guides, me and my partner hugged eachother. Tears of joy and relief dampening our cheeks. It felt amazing, such elation, such joy, there is no actual word for how I felt.

Reaching the Top #4

We awoke bright eyed and as close to bushy tailed as we could muster. As I poked my head out of my tent a member of our group saw how awful I felt and gave me some of his anti-altitude pills. I am eternally grateful.

The Lunar desert was long. Really, really long. I think it being called a Lunar desert is quite apt. But to me it was as though we were walking on the bottom of a great ocean void of all its life giving water.

Roughly a 3rd of the way into our day we came across the wreckage of a plane. It was hugely surreal, just metres from the track we traversed. The pilot and passengers flew too low whilst taking pictures and crashed into the mountain. A terrible tragedy.

From about three fifths of the way, after hours of picking one foot up and placing it in front of the other, we could see tents on the horizon. What was a comfort at other parts of our journey, seeing camp, became a taunt to us. From our place in that Lunar landscape those tents came no closer. Step after step, no closer. Until finally we were minutes away. I'm not ashamed to say on our final shuffle up the last slope to camp tears sprung from my eyes. The last camp. We made it. Sleep, please sleep.

After a short nap I felt brand new. I could breathe, my head was clear, I was ready! After our final briefing we prepared ourselves for one last sleep before our final ascent at midnight.

Reaching the Top #3

Day 3 of our climb. Altitude struck me like hammer on anvil. My head felt as though it was being squeezed from all sides and nausea kicked in. Breathing was tough, and walking felt as thought it was the hardest thing in the world. 

Compared to the previous day this was a short one, but no less harder. The terrain was harsh and unforgiving, much harder to traverse, especially coupled with altitude.

After struggling for hours and being shepherded by a couple of guides, Declan and Lucia, we were told we were only minutes away from the safety and comfort of camp.

Nature overheard. And answered with a sudden hail, a freezing and testing hail that drenched our clothes and chilled our fingers. At that height things don't really dry properly, and if they do, not at all quickly. We crawled to camp, straight to the tent to get dry and change clothes.

After a few minutes of rest the hail passed. Time for food, popcorn and Milo (a strange malted hot drink). This brief intermission was was followed by an acclimatisation walk. I felt like death, altitude had stripped me of any energy I had left. But, I knew if I didn't do this acclimatisation walk than the next day would be even worse for me. We were camped by a lake and around it, in stones laid out, were messages of previous climbers recent and from past years. A sight to behold.

The climb was short but arduous. But what awaited us at the top was a view, a truly breathtaking view. To one side, the towering pointed peak of Mawenzi, and out as far as the eye could see; the Lunar desert. Our next obstacle.

But for now, sleep...

Reaching the Top #2

The climb, day 2.

From Simba camp we set out, steadily progressing up hill. After day one in the dusty forest it was time to break out the buff to keep the dust from my nose and throat, wished I'd used it on day 1.

Day 2 of the climb was one of the longest taking roughly 7 hours. The porters who carried the tents, cooking oil, cooking equipment and everything we did not need during the day were incredible. They carried all this and more on their heads while singing and greeting us at every point, "Jambo!". 

After a couple of hours we made it to one of the first stops, a fantastic cave and an epic photo opportunity. There was a hole in the roof of the cave, naturally we all had to climb up through it.

After spending some time at the caves we set out towards our next waypoint, the second set of caves for much needed lunch and rest.

It was at this point, around 3400 metres, that I started to feel the altitude. It was like someone pressing on either side of the head and receiving an unrelenting bear hug, not allowing you the breath you need.

Still feeling pretty rough, a few of us decided to visit the the second cave which was a few minutes away from our lunch point. Again, there were fantastic views to be had and photo opps to be taken advantage of.

After lunch, which was a struggle with the headaches etc, we set out for the next camp. Although our ascent was at a pretty shallow incline it was tough, seemingly neverending.

The change in the surrounding physical environments was incredible, one merging into the other seamlessly. Going from forest, to shrubland, through to moorland and then to a dark and gravelly camp.

Sleep on this second night would prove elusive.

Before bed each evening we'd have a group briefing run by one of the guides. We'd hear about the next day, how long it would be, what we might eat, what we might see. We'd also get warned that we must wear our torches if we get up in the night as there are jackals that are still around at this altitude, thus armed guards are at hand all night. Mix jackals, tiredness, altitude and imagination and it makes for a terrible nights sleep. At one point during the night I was convinced there was something trying to get into our tent. We later learned the next day that there was some sort of moose like creature roaming around camp, and that it was safer to let it be than to spook it and have it trample anyone.

Thanks thing in the night...

Reaching the Top #1

So, it's been a while since my last blog, and I apologise for that.

Kilimanjaro was the adventure of a lifetime.

We met some amazing people.

And had some amazing guides.

We arrived fresh faced and super excited. On our first night in Tanzania we stayed in a lovely Lodge and met our group for the first time. That evening we had a meeting with our chief guide, Abraham, who told us what we could expect, how our days would play out and handed out any equipment that was hired.

We hired sleeping bags and walking poles, simply because we didn't want the extra weight to carry on the plane or the awkwardness of walking poles. We really wish we'd of hired the massive the arctic jackets that others in our group had as they look really comfy.The next day we got a bus to the climbs starting point, the Rongai Forest. After being registered etc we began our ascent. The Rongai Forest is really beautiful, a lovely start to the journey, a dirt path through dense trees and forest farmland.

We even saw a few monkeys on the way.

After ours trekking through the forest we arrived at our first camp, Simba camp, at 2626 metres. Our guides told us that it was named Simba camp because it used to be a route lions would take many years ago, and Simba in Swahili means lion, if you hadn't already seen the Lion King.

We got introduced to our portable hotel rooms (tents), which were really great. After a quick tour around camp and an acclimatisation walk, we wandered to the mess tent for our first meal.

Neither of us brought our head torches with us to the mess tent, rookie error. Day becomes night in what seems just minutes, so I stumbled to our tent in the dark to find them, before returning to the mess tent. Before bed we stood outside a while and chatted with some of the other members of our group, bats flying overhead scooping up bugs from around us.

Our first nights sleep would be the best we'd have for the next week...